Thursday 11 October 2012

Grace Kelly and the New Look - Late 1940s Fashion Revolution


Post World War II saw a remarkable change in fashion. With restrictions to fabric and other materials being lifted, fashion designers were once again free to express their craft in a recovering economy.

Christian Dior can be credited as the genius behind a style that changed a generation and inspired the style of the full circle skirts of the 1950s. It was Dior's belief that women were tired of uniforms and the somewhat harsh and oppressive styles that clothing took during WWII. In 1947, Dior released a line of clothing called "Corelle", named after the frail petals that line the centre of flower buds. However, as the popularity of the collection spread across US and European magazines, it became quickly referred to as "The New Look".

"I wanted my dresses to be constructed, molded upon the curves of the feminine body, whose sweep they would stylize," Christian Dior proclaimed in one autobiographical interview.

A new lady-like charm was being adopted and screen idols such as Grace Kelly became the fashion aspiration of many women. The "New Look" is characterised by the return of the hourglass figure, as natural curves and edges were softened. For instance, shoulders were no longer squared, but rounded. Darts returned to many skirt and dress styles to accomodate smaller waists and natural curves that were enhanced by the generous use of fabric. Hemlines varied, but skirts were full and accented with multi-layered petticoats that made the "New Look" style very glamourous and appealing.

Genuine Dior "New Look" gowns should nearly stand up by themselves due to the excessive amount of material used to create them. The interlining, interfacings, petticoats and bonings used by Dior were all designed to create a garment that could more or less support itself.


Recommended Reading

To Catch a Thief by David Dodge
All the Pretty Horses by Cormac McCarthy
The Catcher in the Rye by J. D. Salinger
Starring Sally J. Freedman as Herself by Judy Blume
Montana 1948 by Larry Watson


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