Oo La La - Paris is Dancing Mad in 1913

Courtesy of the Wearing History Blog.

The credit for this wonderful find goes to blogging fashion historian Wearing Fashion. This is an excerpt from a McCall's magazine in 1913 that has some beautiful illustrations of the clothing worn by society ladies during this time. It is featured with a charming little article about public dances and tea parties - now those were the days...

Clothing worn by the Edwardian lady consisted of many, many layers! The first undergarment layer was a combination of a vest and pants set. A corset went over the top, its busks fastened with metal clips down the front, and laced up the back. Silk pads were often attached to the hips to enhance the 'hourglass' look and make the waist appear more slender.

Next came the camisole and knickers, which were always white. Then came silk or woolen stockings - typically black, white, or grey - and were held up by garters. The last of the undergarments was the waist-petticoat made of silk and was tied around the waist.

Finally, after all that, the lady would put on either a dress or skirt and blouse. If ladies wore a blouse and skirt, then a stiffened belt that fastened in the front was also required to be pinned onto the undergarments so that there could never be a gap. Lastly, shoes, and gloves, and, well....just imagine how long it took to get dressed and undressed!

Recommended Reading

A Room with a View by E. M. Forster
Woman in Black by Susan Hill
The House at Riverton by Kate Morton

Guide Dogs Victoria Cocktail Party

Oh, how ever so civilised!

There is nothing quite like frocking up in your best evening attire and going out to mingle with a classy beverage in one hand and tickets for the Fashion Meets Fiction Exhibition in the other.

In honor of our fist week of opening and in support of our charity partnership with Guide Dogs Victoria, Fashion Meets Fiction will celebrate with an Official Cocktail Party at Burrinja Cultural Centre on Thursday 15 November at 7:30pm. All funds raised from this event will go to Guide Dogs Victoria.

All are welcome to partake of this enchanting evening of delightful fashions showcased from the Darnell Collection and support this wonderful cause.


When: Thursday 15th November 7:30pm - 9:30pm
Where: Burrinja Cultural Centre, Cnr of Glenfern & Matson Drive, Upwey VIC 3158
Cost: $55.00

Bookings essential phone 9754 8723 or book online.

Over $800 raised at the Boronia Fashion Parade

Jasminder, modelling a lovely
summer evening dress

Boronia Library has once again set the standard that you don't have to spend a million bucks to look like a million bucks. Style on a dime was all the buzz at Boronia Library last Friday when they hosted their annual Fashion Parade with a $860 dollars raised for charity. With a record turn out of over 70 people, guests were treated to a catwalk presentation and then unleashed to explore the clothing racks and stalls from the Brotherhood of St Laurence and Erica Louise's Recycled Fashions.

The Brotherhood of St Laurence had a wide selection of tempting items - there wasn't much left by the time everyone went home. All proceeds from the clothing sold on the night went to the Brotherhood of St Laurence, with a total of $500 raised. Most popular were the items that had been modelled in the catwalk show, with fashionable designer dresses including Ojay, Tokito and Forever New being sold for no more than $7.

"Fashion is so affordable," Hillary from Ferntree Gully remarked. "I don't know what to choose. I want to take everything home!"

Julie, from Boronia, a returning attendee, was thrilled with the skirt she found for $4. "I came last year and walked out with a beautiful blouse that has seen so much wear since I bought it. Now, I've found this skirt - I absolutely love it, can't wait to match it up at home."

 Sarah, along with her mum Valerie, also found a bargain in a beautiful dress (modelled by Jasminder in the above photo) for going out to dinner; "I think it's so pretty, can't wait to wear it."

Erica Louise from
Recycled Fashions

Erica Louise, from sustainable fashion blog Recycled Fashions, also had a stall with a number of gorgeous zipper brooches for sale with proceeds going to the McGrath Foundation. "It is definitely hard to choose," said Maria, from Boronia. "What a great idea to make with zippers - so clever - and they are so cute." If you missed out on these little gems, don't worry - you can still find these fantastic zipper brooches made by Erica Louise on her Recycled Fashions website.

With ticket sales and the contributions from Erica's zipper brooches, a total of $360 was raised for the McGrath Foundation.

There was also a chance to win two tickets to the Fashion Meets Fiction - Darnell Collection Exhibition at Burrinja Cultural Centre opening later this year. Congratulations to our winner Candice!


Behind the scenes, we also have to give a big shout out and thank you to everyone who was able to make this fantastic evening so successful.

Linda (Branch Manager) - Event Organiser
Karen - Wardrobe Mistress
Mark - Catwalk MC
Phillip - Lighting and Music DJ
Sharon, Bernadette, Jacqui, Judy and Jasminder - our gorgeous models. Well done, ladies!!
Erica Louise - for making those lovely zipper brooches from Recycled Fashions.
Ladies from the Brotherhood of St Laurence - for managing those busy, busy stalls!

Grace Kelly and the New Look - Late 1940s Fashion Revolution

Post World War II saw a remarkable change in fashion. With restrictions to fabric and other materials being lifted, fashion designers were once again free to express their craft in a recovering economy.

Christian Dior can be credited as the genius behind a style that changed a generation and inspired the style of the full circle skirts of the 1950s. It was Dior's belief that women were tired of uniforms and the somewhat harsh and oppressive styles that clothing took during WWII. In 1947, Dior released a line of clothing called "Corelle", named after the frail petals that line the centre of flower buds. However, as the popularity of the collection spread across US and European magazines, it became quickly referred to as "The New Look".

"I wanted my dresses to be constructed, molded upon the curves of the feminine body, whose sweep they would stylize," Christian Dior proclaimed in one autobiographical interview.

A new lady-like charm was being adopted and screen idols such as Grace Kelly became the fashion aspiration of many women. The "New Look" is characterised by the return of the hourglass figure, as natural curves and edges were softened. For instance, shoulders were no longer squared, but rounded. Darts returned to many skirt and dress styles to accomodate smaller waists and natural curves that were enhanced by the generous use of fabric. Hemlines varied, but skirts were full and accented with multi-layered petticoats that made the "New Look" style very glamourous and appealing.

Genuine Dior "New Look" gowns should nearly stand up by themselves due to the excessive amount of material used to create them. The interlining, interfacings, petticoats and bonings used by Dior were all designed to create a garment that could more or less support itself.


Recommended Reading

To Catch a Thief by David Dodge
All the Pretty Horses by Cormac McCarthy
The Catcher in the Rye by J. D. Salinger
Starring Sally J. Freedman as Herself by Judy Blume
Montana 1948 by Larry Watson

Soldiering On - Early 1940s Fashion

Practicality was the essence of 1940s fashion. It is unmistakable that the advent of World War II had a tremendous impact on fashion. People were still feeling the sting of the Depression from the 1930s, so the move into the pragmatic and durable fashion of the 1940s was easily adopted.

Fabric in the 1940s was rationed in order to supply the war effort. Nylon and wool were both needed by the military for parachutes. Wool was used for soldier's blankets. Japanese silk was banned in the USA after the attack on Pearl Harbor. Metal from zippers were needed, and buttons (whilst also in short supply) were used sparingly and not ornamentation. Man-made fibres, such as rayon (made from wood fibre) became the material of choice, namely for its versatility - as it did not shrink or crease and could be made in either heavy or light weights.

Attitudes to fashion also changed. Everyone was expected to make do with less and to make it last. "Make do and mend" was the motto of the time. For instance, jackets were often made out of recycled blankets. Shorts could be made out of recycled sheets or pillowcases and many bridal gowns were made out of nighties. Even Hollywood could no longer afford the elaborate and flowing gowns featured by many renowned starlets that graced the movie screens during the 1930s. In fact, anything extravagant was considered unpatriotic.

This in turn influenced the overall style of fashion during the World War II period. Official restrictions were put in place in the UK, US and Australia that specified the amount of fabric a garment could be made of. Everything was streamlined to be practical, durable and to be made with the least amount of material as possible. Hemlines in the 1940s rose, and the general cut of fabric was boxy to maximise material usage when laying out pattern pieces. Shoulder pads were added to these lean, straight styles to emulate the military look of the time.

It was during the 1940s that the concept of "separates" was introduced. Mix'n'match options were encouraged to allow people to have greater wardrobe variety with their limited choices. Pants, once considered scandalous to be worn by women, became a staple of every woman's wardrobe and were quickly accepted for their versatility across all aspects of daily life.

The Cat's Meow - Slang in the 1920s

Sparkly! Beaded Cap
Image Courtesy: Queens of Vintage

The 1920s was the first decade that emphasised the culture of youth over older generations. In celebration of this social shift, new slang and vernacular language emerged, such as seen on the conversations in F. Scott Fitzgerald's The Great Gatsby and Kerry Greenwood's Phryne Fisher mysteries.  Many of the terms and phrases coined during this period are still widely used today.

• Applesauce - an expletive same as horsefeathers
• Bank's Closed - no kissing or making out 
• Bearcat - a hot-blooded or fiery girl 
• Bee's Knees - An extraordinary person, thing, idea; the ultimate
• Cat's Meow or Pyjamas - The best or greatest, wonderful.
• Cheaters - Eyeglasses
• Clam - a dollar
• Dead soldier - an empty beer bottle
• Dolled up - dressed up 
• Dry up - shut up, get lost 
• Ducky - very good 
• Fire extinguisher - a chaperone 
• Gams - A woman's legs
• Hair of the Dog - a shot of alcohol
• Heebie-jeebies - The jitters
• Hotsy-totsy - Pleasing
• Joe - coffee 
• Joint - an establishment, usually a bar or a speakeasy
• Moll - A gangster's girl
• Razz - to make fun of
• Real McCoy - The genuine article
• Ritzy - Elegant
• Rubes - money
• Sinker - a doughnut
• Speakeasy - An illicit bar selling bootleg liquor
• Spiffy - Elegant 
• Swanky - Ritzy
• Wet Blanket - a solemn person, a killjoy
• Whoopee - To have a good time or an intimate encounter
• You slay me - that's funny

Vintage Couture with Anne Dixon at Lilydale Library

Anne Dixon is one of our most popular fashion historians - and she is back again this October to present a selection of her Vintage Couture collection at Lilydale Library. Anne will provide a beautiful showcase of items ranging from the 1920s up the 1970s and discuss how fashion was influential on social attitudes and change. Creations from designers such as Chanel, Yves St Laurent and Dior will also be on display.

Also, one lucky guest will win two tickets to the Fashion Meets Fiction - The Darnell Collection Exhibition at Burrinja Cultural Centre that opens in November.

When: Tuesday 9th October 2:00pm
Where: Lilydale Library, Anderson Street, Lilydale
Cost: Free Event with Refreshments provided.

Bookings essential phone 9294 3120 or book online.